The Consolidated Guide to Gran Turismo 5

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    Peter Chapman

    Originally posted on the old forums by teflon, I’m just reposting for the new system.

    This thread will collate all of the previous GT5 guide threads into one place. That means I’ll be un-pinning those threads and letting them slowly but surely slide down this forum page, I will, however be keeping links to them, in case you want to see what it is that other people have said on the matters.
    At the same time, I’m unpinning the Reasonably and Non-Reasonably Priced Car threads.

    So the next 5 posts will be dedicated to:
    – The Car Unlock Guide – The cars you unlock for completing the various races and cups in A-Spec, B-Spec, Events and Challenges etc.
    – Brief Guide to Tuning – What does what from the Tuning Store, you might want to visit the original thread for other people’s thoughts.
    – Guide to B-Spec – And inversely A-Spec too. What cars to use to get the best out of your drivers. This includes:
    – B-Spec tips
    – Important Cars
    – Levelling up extra drivers quickly
    – Best places for farming from Lvl 20-25.
    – Individual race tips and cars to use. (2nd post)
    – Key Area Set Up Guide – Freeze chips in with some set ups he and others used for the more challenging events. Good luck!

    Lets get going:

    Peter Chapman

    This is going to be as comprehensive an unlock guide for GT5 as we can manage, so far. Plenty details have been borrowed from GTPlanet’s spreadsheet, which is also a good place to go for XP and Money explanations. Particular thanks go to Freezebug for his intrepid unlocking of stuff!

    [Tables are annoying, coming when I can work out how to post them]

    – Italics are definitely Premium cars.
    – Question marks are currently unknown.
    – Where no specific car name is made, such as “Lvl 5 Car Ticket” the car you receive is randomised from the selection specified.

    Connections between unlocked cars and cups where they are particularly useful, such as the Buick Special ’62 being ridiculously amazing for B-Spec Classic Muscle Car, will be done some time soon. Maybe in a different thread.

    Peter Chapman

    Given that there’s such a small wealth of tuning options available to you, which could be particularly important for the Top Gear Reasonably Price Car challenge. Here’s a thread dedicated to discussing them and what they do.

    So, here’s my guide to basic tuning and getting the most out of your car. (I’m no expert, but I’ll find someone who is, for better tuning!)

    Basic and cost effective tunes:
    For just a few thousand credits, you can get a big performance jump.
    – Sports Air Filter and Racing Air Filter cost 250 and 450 credits, respectively.
    – Catalytic Converter: Sports for 500 usually matches the increase of a 1,500 Sports Exhaust.
    – Sports ECU for 1,000 credits gives you a very big boost for the price.
    Between those 3, you’ll see a pretty big jump of around 15%. That’s a big deal out on the track, specially when you’ve got B-Spec drivers. Beyond that, prices spiral upwards, so those are the 3 upgrades I go for first.

    Of course, this is just simple and cheap stuff, and there’ll be plenty more you can get out of the cars for more money.

    This stands for Brake Horse Power, and the more of them you have, the more horses you’ve got in your car. It’s a measure of how powerful your engine is, and and much pull it has. So the more horses, the faster you’ll go.
    The categories that modify this are Engine, Intake System, Exhaust and Turbo Kits. All work in subtly different ways, and so have slightly different effects, but largely are working on the power output.

    If you’re having trouble getting off the line compared to your opponents, and a bit of trouble staying on the track at high speeds, then you need to be looking at your tyres. Put simply, the more expensive the tyre, the grippier it is, so you’ve got better traction. This can be particularly important for your B-Spec drivers to get a good run at the start (since they’re often rather useless at overtaking)
    Just look out, though, because the tyres can a) get pretty expensive and b) there’s often tyre restrictions on the races, which aren’t necessarily the same for both A and B-Spec. So make sure you check both before you buy your tyres.

    This controls the ride height of your car and the stiffness of the springs. If you lower your car, you get better handling, but you also have to have stiffer and/or more efficient springs and shock absorbers. One key factor you need to consider is the kerbs on the track. If there’s high kerbs and you’re running the car too low, it won’t be able to handle the impact as well, and quite possibly send you flying. There’s three upgrades on offer, the most expensive of which is very adjustable, and as many times as you want

    Since I’m not that clued up on the rest, I’m going to hand over to Hannes_Truce for a bit more explanation, but before that, a plug for Hannes_Truce’s tuning shop. At the price of one car, he’ll take your car (which has adjustable parts already installed) and test it out, then modify the ratios and balance it all out for you.

    Transmition :
    6 vs 5 speed
    Why upgrade to a 6 speed? – An extra gear enables you to increase both the top speed and acceleration of your car by distributing the power more evenly – this option does not however offer any customisation of the gears so be careful when installing this in a lower powered car as you may sacrifice your top speed for faster acceleration dependant on your cars RPMs and Torque.

    Fully customisable gear box
    Like the 6 speed this adds an extra one (or two depending on the car) gears. Being fully customisable this also enables you to tune the gear ratios (the spacing of the gears) increasing the top speed while sacrificing acceleration in the lower gears or vice versa.
    The best way to describe the effects in brief is if you imagine a giant slinky, keep it slack and you can move from one loop to the other quickly but will reach the end (or top speed) soon but it’s closer to you– pull it taught and it’ll take longer to travel between the loops but the end (or top speed) will be much further away (or higher).
    Whilst tuning gears be sure to check your cars performance on both straights and corners in both low and high gears – watch the ‘acceleration bar’ on your HuD and listen to the engines revs, if the engine sounds like it’s stuttering and the bar is mostly filled with red rather than white you will need to take note of the gear you are in and tune it accordingly (normally down) as you are losing power between gear changes.

    The Clutch and Flywheel
    The benefit or replacing parts within the drivetrain are subtle but important, especially during tight cornering and acceleration out of corners. All parts here will decrease the time it takes your engine to accelerate in the dead zone between gears and even though this might only make millisecond of difference, if you try to think about how many times you change gears in one race it can make a massive impact.

    Torque Distribution Centre Differential
    A part that can only be applied to 4×4 vehicles, this effectively allows you to dictate how the cars power is distributed between the front and rear wheels.
    This can be extremely useful in battling over and under steer in heavy cars – for example in the Gallardo, a heavy and powerful car, the engine is at the rear centre of the car – distributing more power to the rear wheels under the heaviest part of the car will therefore cancel out oversteer and keeping some drive in the front wheels will avoid loss of traction during cornering – 90%/10% split is the limit of distribution

    What is it? – as you’re cornering your car will most likely shift it’s weight to the outside causing less pressure on the outside wheel. The consequence of this is that the car will naturally put the same amount of power into both wheels causing the inside wheel to spin faster an lose traction – not a pleasant thing in a high speed corner.
    The Limited Slip Differential enables you to tell the car to limit the difference in power going to each wheel (the ‘slip’ between them) thereby potentially increasing your traction whilst cornering and subsequently your acceleration and responsiveness of your breaks. However over tune this and it will cause sever understeer – especially in front wheel drive cars as you will increase your turning circle.
    This is definitely the most driver preference specific part of tuning so something you’ll need to play with until you feel that car is responding how you want it to, do you prefer turning early and breaking harder or turning late and coming out of the corner slower.

    Many thanks to Truce for his input, and I’ll have a look at the GT Auto Repair Shop thing a bit later on.

    Peter Chapman

    I know some of you out there are having a tricky time picking your way through B-Spec, and even some of A-Spec when you need to have certain cars and don’t. So here’s my guide to how to do B-Spec, with a large contingent of what cars to use, and a side helping of A-Spec thrown in for good measure!
    At the beginning, your A-Spec driver is completely hopeless, but after a while, he does get better, and even if B-Spec isn’t all that much fun, before long you can just set up a race with your driver in a fast car, and go away to do some cooking, or write up a guide, and let him get on with it, earning XP, a bit of cash, and all for basically no effort.

    – B-Spec tips
    – Important Cars
    – Levelling up extra drivers quickly
    – Best places for farming from Lvl 20-25.
    – Individual race tips and cars to use. (2nd post)

    First up, my hints and tips for getting your driver through a race without spinning:
    -When you pick out your driver, try and get the best stats you possibly can, of course, but also go for a driver who’s got a cool head. The cooler they are the easier it is to calm them down, and less likely they are to make mistakes.
    – Stick him in the fastest car you possibly can for any race. If he can get to the front after a couple corners, he’s easily won, as long as he doesn’t spin out.
    – All things being equal isn’t the best way to go about it. If you have to put your driver in a car equal to his opponents, he will fail during the first few series. So give it a quick and cheap tune up (not fast enough during the actual race), and slap the best tyres allowed on the car (Not quick enough off the line).
    -During the race, the swing-o-meter under the driver’s name is hot cool headed or hot headed they are. The ideal place is really in the middle, as too hot and he’ll eventually start to make mistakes, and too cool, and he’ll start to go really really slow, if left to his own devices.
    -Don’t worry too much about keeping him cool if he’s chasing another car. If you slow him down, he’ll just lose pace too much, so push him during the first part of the race, and then maintain pace.
    -Towards the end of the race, though, when he’s all sleepy and slow, tone down your commands. Still push on the straight, but have him maintain pace through corners, and slow down for tough corners.
    -Learn the tracks. I know when to say to push on Nurburgring, and I know which corners on Cape Ring will cause the AI to spin out if you tell them to push hard. The latter is more important than the former, so that when you’ve got position you don’t lose it.
    -Every 5 levels you go up, you can create a new driver. To level them up quickest, pick and choose the easy cups and races where they can level up easily (if the race Lvl is higher than theirs, they get a comparatively huge boost in XP).
    – After level 20, and in the Extreme series, you start to see tyre wear and fuel levels come into play for B-Spec. That means that pit stops and driver changes will also appear. This can be useful for levelling your driver up. I use the Minolta Toyota on Extreme Super GT R246 race, with my top driver partnered with my rookie, set it to “Pit Strength” 10% under Pit Strategy, and I can walk away for an hour, come back, get 45k, and both drivers have gained a big chunk of XP, my rookie often going up a level.
    -Have B-Spec on in the background whilst you’re doing other things. Turn the sound off, and, unless it’s a race where you have to carefully dictate, just glance at it every few mins. The Live Timings view is less visually distracting for this kind of play.
    – Your driver gets a whole lot better as he progresses. Just stick with it, and it’ll pay you back by unlocking several very important cars for you to use on A-Spec too.

    Important Cars and where they came from:
    – Your first really fast car, be it a Ford GT, SLS AMG, Nissan GT-R ’07 or whatever – So long as it has enough raw grunt, it’s perfect for the early cups that don’t have many limitations and a really crap set of opponents. Just buy from the Premium Dealerships.
    – Jaguar E-Type ’61 – Great for the two Classic Car cups on Beginner. I believe it was ~50,000 Cr. from the Used Dealership.
    – Lamborghini Murcielago Super Veloce – This is important for some of the Lamborghini cups. 394,910 Cr. from the Lamborghini Dealership. Make sure to use the most expensive tyres allowed to keep this controllable.
    – Ferrari Enzo – Great for sorting out the Ferrari races, and a good workhorse for some of the middle speed series. 1,000,000 Cr. from the Ferrari Dealership.
    – Lamborghini Countach ’74 – Brilliant car for historical races, specially when tuned up higher. Won from Professional Lamborghini Exclusive Cup A-Spec.
    – Pagani Zonda R ’09 – Another very powerful car, and also very flexible. Won from Professional Gran Turismo World Champ B-Spec.
    – Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 – Not the most fun car around, and you need to Race Spec it and tune it to the max for it to be useful. Total cost ~600,000 Cr. from the Chevrolet Dealership + tuning up money.
    – Minolta Toyota – What a car! /The/ car you need during Extreme and even some of the Expert cups. Won from Extreme Like the Wind A-Spec.
    – Formula GT – Another immense car to own. You’ll need it for the Formula GT Championship on Extreme, but it really cuts through the crap in almost all of the Endurance races both A-Spec and B-Spec. Currently available in the Collector’s Online Dealership for a cool 4.9 million Cr. Might not be there forever, so save up!

    Level up secondary, tertiary etc. drivers quickly:
    It can be a right pain in the arse having to level up your 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th drivers, but here’s a few pointers to get them levelled up enough to be useful in a single evening:
    Second and third drivers – You get an extra driver every 5 levels, but until you reach Extreme races, there’s no real need for them. So focus on your main driver, and he’ll tackle everything then do roughly the following for your 2nd and 3rd driver.
    – Beginner, World Compact Series – Audi R8 or your best 4WD car, 3x Lvl 1 races, 20 mins total, no instruction once in the lead. Up to lvl 2
    – Amateur, Clubman Cup – Same as above, 30 mins total, no instruction once in the lead. Up to mid-Lvl 3.
    – Amateur, Festival Italia, Rome – Enzo or your fastest Italian car, race 2 or 3 times, 9 mins each, no instruction once in the lead. Driver at Lvl 5.
    – Pro, SuperCar Festival, High Speed Ring or Daytona – Your fastest car, maybe Zonda, race 2x, 5 mins each with lots of direction, overtakie and increase pace constantly. Driver almost at Lvl 7. You may ruin your 100% win record at this point…
    – Expert, Schwarzwald A, R246 – Fastest German Car, race 2x, 13-15 mins, no direction. Driver almost at Lvl 9.
    He’s now useful enough for use as a back up driver in the European Champ and Super GT. To train him up a bit more, and earn cash and XP to reach Lvl 25 and unlock endurance do:
    – Extreme, Super GT, R246 – Minolta, race till your backup driver hits Lvl 15, 50 mins per race, no directions, set Pit Strength to 10%
    Personally I used this to train up my 3rd driver for the Endurance Series.

    Once you’ve reached Endurance Series, you can now fast track your drivers extremely quickly. I’d recommend only doing this with a single Lvl 0, but some people have done it with two Lvl 0 drivers.
    – 300 km Grand Valley – Use a 4WD car, like the Audi R8 or Lambo Murcielago SV, and set your Lvl 0 driver to start the race. Set Pit Strength to 10% and come back to your PS3 when the race is done in 2:30 hours. Your rookie should now suddenly be somewhere between Lvl 11 and Lvl 15, depending on how many laps he ended up doing (this is why you set him to start, so he does an extra 2 laps).
    Now repeat this process with your next rookie driver, but mix it up a little and use different drivers that you want to level up.
    Both systems will take roughly the same length of time to level up your driver to ~Lvl 15, but the latter is less hassle. After this point, just race different combinations as a foursome, and all your drivers will totally rock. If you’re aiming for the “get your driver to the peak of his career” trophy, then always race your 1st driver.
    You can also use later endurance races in the same way, for even bigger rewards.

    Best races for XP and Cr. (Both A and B-Spec)
    Using the handy Google Docs page from GTPlanet, I’ve picked out the best few races to level up and earn Cr. past Lvl 25… (Cr. earned is currently 20% higher until the end of January)
    – Extreme Series, Dream Car, Monza – All the Dream Car events earn you ~75k Cr. with 374k Cr. at the end, but Monza takes around 15-20 mins in a Minolta, and gets you nearly 20,000 XP, which is a better rate of XP and Cash per minute than the first 4 or 5 Endurance events, and much more convenient.
    – Extreme Series, DTM, Nordschliefe – 83k Cr. for 8-9 mins of your time, and Nurburg is awesome.
    – Extreme, American Championship, Indianapolis – 98k Cr. for 5 mins of your time. Minimal thought necessary, and best for farming cash.

    – Extreme, Super GT, R246 – 45-50 mins and you earn 45k Cr. with zero input. Much better rate of money earning than any of the early Endurance races.
    – Extreme, Dream Car, Monza – Earns money just as fast as R246, and gets you 1.6x the XP. Should be easy to win, too, and only takes 20 mins.
    – Endurance races – As a rule of thumb, the most recently unlocked event will earn you the most XP. So once they’re unlocked, use them for farming whilst you sleep. The longer the race the better, too.

    Peter Chapman

    My very own experiences with each cup I’ve raced so far, with some extra input and options courtesy of JamboGT.

    [tables to come]

    AshGraham says – Daytona and indy are pure luck, but grand valley and laguna seca can be easily won. whereas the guide says keep him calm all the way through and give him a push at the end, i found the best strategy was to pit halfway for fresh tyres and then b-spec bob was able to push and be far faster in the 2nd half
    Teflon says – Across the board, for both A and B-Spec, I kept the top speed a notch above those that Jambo suggested. I personally pushed my driver till I was in the lead, and then settled down a bit for the rest of the race, on the three non-oval tracks. Indianapolis was an easy drag for me, but my guy has yet to best Daytona, as have I on A-Spec. (On A-Spec, I was spun out by the AI, so turned around and smashed into my main competitor on his next lap to win the cup… Naughty I know!) Also, be wary of entering 1st gear on A-Spec. Learn to manage it with your triggers and you can go stay in 2nd to prevent the revs going mental and getting a lot of wheel spin when you flatten the throttle.

    [tables to come]

    Now back to the main section for the Endurance Series:

    [tables to come]


    Great stuff, thanks for that. A veritable goldmine of hints, stats and useful strategies, very much worth keeping. ;)


    Hmm, interesting story. Please, tell me more…

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